Wood screws for flooring. Self-tapping screws for the floor. Use of hidden fasteners

When arranging flooring in your home, you need to pay close attention not only to the type of materials used for this. It is necessary to carefully select the method of fastening the cladding.

Everyone knows that each building material needs its own type of fixation and method of its use. In this case, the plank covering is no exception.

Considering all the loads that fall on floor cladding, the choice of method of fastening the boards is very, very important. When individual floorboards are not secured firmly enough, after a certain period of time (often very short), they begin to loosen. They change their original position, the initially flat and smooth floor begins to creak underfoot, and often simply collapses.

This article is about how to fix a floorboard correctly and efficiently. The most reliable and common methods will be considered.

Existing fixation methods

Floorboards are fixed in three main ways:

1. so-called secret - using nails or self-tapping screws;
2. adhesive analogue;
3. and using clamps.

Fastening boards with nails

1. In this way, the boards are usually attached to a wooden base (solid or assembled from logs).
2. The initial row of floorboards is laid using nails driven into the base through the tongue and groove at an angle of 45 degrees. Then they are driven into place.
3. To avoid damaging the tongues, holes for fasteners must be pre-drilled with a drill.
4. During the process of adjusting the next row of planks, the nails must be hidden.
5. All other rows of planks are fixed with your own hands using nails, in the usual way - through their surface.

Note! When it is necessary to replace several floorboards when repairing the covering, make sure that each of them ends under the center of the crossbar. Otherwise the coating will not be durable.

Adhesive installation method

When board cladding is installed on a solid base, adhesive can be used to secure it.

1. For this purpose, the grooves of a row of boards are lubricated with an adhesive compound (for example, ordinary PVA) before they are placed on the tongues of the adjacent row.
2. The instructions instruct to apply glue in a thin layer of 1/2 mm, every 0.5 m, along the entire surface of the groove.
3. The final tongue-and-groove edges are also coated with the composition.

Fixation with clamps

Some manufacturers provide boards with clamps that are inserted into the slot on the inside. These elements are needed to fasten the planks together.

A little about how to properly attach the flooring in a boring way.

1. After installing the subfloors, lay a layer of waterproofing on them. Secure the material to the walls with self-adhesive tape.
2. Hammer the clamps in the direction of the tongue into the cracks of the first row of boards to be laid.
3. Apply glue to the planks along their end seams. Place the first row.
4. Place wedges approximately 1 cm thick between the wall and the boards.
5. Next, secure the clips to the second row of planks. By carefully tapping with a hammer (through a piece of protective block) on the edges of this row, fix the floorboards.
6. The entire coating is installed in a similar manner.
7. Next, remove the wall wedges and install the baseboards.

Special self-tapping screws for floorboards

install the skirting boards.

Special self-tapping screws for floorboards

Installing skirting boards: rules and useful tips" href="https://shkolapola.club/plintys/montaj/102-ustanovka-plintusa">install the skirting boards.

Special self-tapping screws for floorboards

1. Such fasteners are produced in several standard sizes: 3.5×35, 3.5×40, 3.5×45 and 3.5×50 millimeters. The size of the screws is selected based on the thickness of the floorboards used.
2. Such self-tapping screws have a protective coating that prevents the appearance of corrosion on them.
3. There is a cutter at the tip of the mount. It makes it possible to screw screws into wood without drilling preparatory holes.

Note! This design ensures a tighter screw fit. Consequently, the fixation of the boards to the subfloor is more durable.

1. The geometry of the milling cut is special. Its angle is chosen in such a way that the screw enters the wood easily, without splitting the planks.
2. Another characteristic feature of self-tapping screws for floorboards is that there is no threaded thread on their upper part. This circumstance contributes to a tighter fit of the floor covering to the base.

1. The pitch between individual screws when fixing the planks to the base should be from 25 to 30 centimeters.

used when laying plank floors. For this purpose, it is necessary to recess the heads of the screws into the wood by 3/4 of a millimeter. The hole formed as a result of these actions can be closed using a piece of wood that matches it in shape and size. Its type should be the same as that of the flooring boards.
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Recommendations for preparing the base for installing floor boards

The floor board is installed on a pre-prepared base, made in the form of a frame of beams and joists. Beams and joists are most often located at a certain pitch. The beams have a large cross-section, are rarely installed and rest on external and internal walls. Joists have a smaller cross-section compared to beams and can be either self-supporting (that is, supported only at the point of attachment to walls or partitions) or installed on an existing foundation (across beams or on floor slabs).

Having looked up various sources, you can find information that for residential premises the calculated load on floors is 200 kg/m2, for public areas - 400 kg/m2. The main problem when choosing the cross-section and material of self-supporting logs and the pitch of their installation is the lack of information on the operational load and the limited choice of board sizes (in most cases - 50*150mm and 50*200mm).

The option of installing logs on an existing foundation is quite obvious. The main task here is to securely fix the joists (plywood) to the supporting structure, use soundproofing material between the joists and the base, and select the correct size of screw for attaching the parquet board to the plywood. The cross-section of logs installed on a rigid base, as a rule, is not calculated and is selected based on the level of the finished floor. When installing parquet boards on plywood, its thickness should be taken into account. Usually birch plywood with a thickness of 15 or 20mm is used. For installation on 15mm thick plywood (economical option), 35mm long screws are usually used, and for installation on 20mm thick plywood (professional reliable option) - 45mm.

Thus, when constructing plank floors, attention should be paid to:

• prevention of static deformation (so-called “operational deflection”);
• noise insulation of the floor (solved by using effective materials that absorb unwanted vibration);
• reliable fastening of the floor covering (choose the correct type and size of screw).

Based on many years of experience in construction and finishing work, we can recommend using dry planed wood with a minimum number of knots for the manufacture of floors. An ideal, but more expensive option would be a floor made of dry laminated veneer lumber or LVL timber.

To soundproof the floor, the distance between the joists is chosen so that the anti-vibration material is installed tightly between the joists with little deformation.

To determine the thickness of the floorboard, we suggest using the following formula:

minimum thickness of floor board (mm) = lag pitch (mm) / K , Where

K is the coefficient that converts the thickness of the board into the pitch of the base (K = 20 - for terrace flooring, K = 15 - for internal wooden floors.

In our opinion, this formula is universal and, taking into account the “creaking” correction, can be extended to plank floors installed indoors. We have the following:

A 20mm thick floor board is a parquet board and in most cases is mounted on a plywood base with a thickness of 15mm (economy option) or 20mm (professional option).

Consumption of self-tapping screws for fastening floor boards

When initially calculating the consumption of self-tapping screws for fastening a floorboard or parquet board, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• thickness and width of the floor board;
• distance between lags;
• sizes of screws “for hard rocks” and screws “for soft rocks”.

Most construction work cannot be completed without the use of fasteners. Self-tapping screws occupy a special place among them. They allow fastening without drilling a hole. However, ordinary self-tapping screws cannot be used to fasten wood elements, as they can cause them to crack and deform. All this will lead to a deterioration in the appearance of the coating and reduce its wear resistance. However, special screws for solid boards from the German company Spax will help solve this problem. This patented product belongs to the German company ABC Verbindungstechnik.

Features of Spax self-tapping screws

Fastening elements were specially designed for fixing parquet, block house, parquet and solid boards, assembling furniture, decking boards and other solid wood or plywood products. During long-term development and laboratory research, a special structure of the self-tapping screw was invented, which significantly simplifies and speeds up the assembly process without damaging the wood, cracking or deforming the product.

Spax self-tapping screws are made from carbon or stainless steel. A zinc anti-corrosion layer is used to coat the element. Some fasteners are coated with brass to increase their moisture resistance. Brass coating is also necessary for fastening natural wood products.

The fastener head is located with a slight inclination to the axis of the product. This allows the fastener to be completely buried in the thickness of the wood material. To prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the screw during natural deformation of the solid product, the body of the screw has a wavy profile. All this gives the fastening element great holding force.

The product consists of four parts:

• self-drilling tetrahedral tip, which allows you to fasten even very thin boards without cracking;
• several wavy and smooth turns, which ensure smooth and easy screwing of the product into solid wood (the number of turns depends on the length of the fastening element);
• a thin, smooth self-tapping screw leg that is completely immersed in the wood;
• a special cap with a special design for secret fastening and clumsy edging.

This design of the fastening element facilitates quick installation of solid wood boards without splitting. At the same time, even non-professionals can work with fasteners. Spax self-tapping screws allow you to pull one board to another or to the base during work.

Attention: for very hard wood species, the manufacturer recommends pre-drilling the hole with a thin drill bit.

The price of a package of Spax fasteners is 38-45 USD. There are 500 pieces in a package. The consumption of self-tapping screws per square meter is 20-25 pcs. Each package contains a bit, which on average is enough for 250 screws. Additionally, you can buy high-quality steel bits for crosspieces and hexagons.

Advantages of fasteners of this brand

Spax self-tapping screws have proven themselves all over the world as the best fastening element for floor coverings made of natural wood, OSB and fiberboard. While traditional self-tapping screws lead to damage and cracking of expensive solid wood material, Spax products provide not only a high-quality and reliable connection, but also the integrity of the board, as well as the beauty of the coating. In addition, they significantly speed up and facilitate the process of laying the top layer of solid wood flooring.

Advantages of Spax self-tapping screws:

• The tetrahedral tip of the Spax fastener makes it easier to screw in and protects the board from cracking. This shape of the tip carefully removes wood fibers, protecting the solid wood product from damage.
• The wavy profile of the screw promotes smooth running and reduces physical stress when screwing.
• The patented milling tip of the fastener allows it to be screwed in without pre-drilling a hole. The self-tapping screw head with a cutter makes the hole itself during the screwing process.
• The special design and tilt of the head ensure a hidden fastening and prevent the fasteners from being unscrewed after installation.
• The self-tapping screws are supplied with T-Star bits, which ensure complete seating of the key in the head, simplify work at any screwing angle and provide the necessary safety.
• To prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the product during operation of the floor covering, there is a special perforation on the back side of the head. It has a braking effect on the fastening element.

Selection of Spax self-tapping screws

Self-tapping screws of this brand are available in different lengths. To choose the correct length of the Spax fastener for a solid board, follow these rules:

1. The length of the fastening element should be 2-2.5 times greater than the thickness of the board when fastening a solid product into a tenon.
2. When fixing into a groove, the length of the self-tapping screw should be 1.5-1.9 times the thickness of the solid floor covering. This method of fixation is used only when installing end boards.
3. The length of the self-tapping screw, which is 2.5-3 times greater than the thickness of the floor product being laid, is needed when fixing it through the entire thickness of the board to the base. This method of fixation is used only when laying the first and last floor element in those places where the plinth will be installed. Also, fastening through the entire thickness is used when laying a plywood base along joists.

Fastening solid boards with self-tapping screws

Typically, laying solid boards is done with glue over a plywood leveling layer laid on the base. The choice of glue depends on the characteristics of the board. It is better to use non-water-based adhesives, but compounds specifically designed for gluing solid boards to a plywood base. The sequence of laying solid wood flooring using Spax screws looks like this:

1. It is imperative to maintain a gap of 0.7-1.0 cm between the walls and the floor covering. To do this, spacer slats of the required width are laid along the perimeter of the room along the walls, which will be removed after laying the covering and the gaps will be covered with a plinth.
2. We apply special glue to the plywood base and the back side of the board using a notched trowel and lay the first row of boards along the wall, pressing them close to the spacer slats. Solid wood products of the first row are laid with a groove against the wall.
3. We fasten the boards to the floor using Spax self-tapping screws. The pitch of fastening elements is 30-40 cm. Only the first row is attached to the base with self-tapping screws through the front surface in the place where part of the board will be covered with a plinth.

Important: each element from the array must be attached to the floor with at least two fasteners.

1. We lay the next row on glue with a shift in the transverse seam by at least a quarter of the board compared to the previous row, but not less than 25 cm. The grooves of the elements of this row are inserted into the ridge of the boards of the first row. Then the ends are tightly knocked down with a bumper beam.
2. We also attach this row to the base with self-tapping screws, pressing it tightly against the boards of the previous row. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the tenon so that the head is completely recessed into the thickness of the material.
3. We install all solid wood flooring in the same way.
4. We saw the boards of the last row to the required width. We fasten them in the same way as the elements of the first row, through the front part with long self-tapping screws all the way through in the place where the baseboard will subsequently be installed.
5. The final stage of laying the flooring will be the installation of skirting boards.

Plank floors, a traditional and long-known method of installing flooring, including finished flooring, have again begun to gain popularity. Installation is simple and does not require special skills, however, the durability of the coating and its performance properties depend not only on the quality of the floorboard, but also on the method of its fastening. Today’s material is about how to choose and use the right screws for a floorboard, as well as other ways to fix it.

The floor structure is subject to serious loads more often than others. In this regard, poor-quality fixation of the lamellas leads to their rapid loosening and the appearance of squeaking. Over time, if no measures are taken, the gaps between the boards will increase, and the gradual destruction of the structure will begin.

Therefore, when installing a plank floor yourself, special attention should be paid to the choice of fastening method, taking into account the purpose of the room and the upcoming loads. To make the structure rigid, strong and durable, you need to follow some recommendations, which will be discussed below.

When making a plank floor, the following should be considered:

1. The flooring is manufactured using the floating method, which means that there must be a gap of at least 1 cm between it and the perimeter walls, as well as protruding structural elements.
2. Logs are an important part of the structure, affecting the evenness of the future floor, so special attention is paid to their location in space - the elements must be located in a single horizontal plane.
3. When joining lamellas along the length, the joints are placed staggered (in a checkerboard pattern). Each joint should be located in the center of the joist.
4. When choosing a board, first of all, take into account its humidity level - high-quality dried material will not bring unpleasant surprises.

Base requirements

Laying plank flooring is possible on different types of bases in the form of:

1. Concrete slabs with a layer of leveling screed.
2. Lags located on brick supports or on floor slabs.
3. Plywood base.
4. Existing old floor.
5. Rough base made of low grade lumber.

Note! Regardless of the type of base, the boards are given time to acclimatize before laying. To do this, they are brought into the room where installation will take place for several days - the material must get used to the microclimate so that after fixing the boards, they do not become deformed. The optimal indoor humidity is about 50%.

In addition, the base itself must have a humidity level of no higher than 12%

There are several ways to fix a floorboard, each of which has its own characteristics. Among them are:

1. A secret method using nails or screws.
2. Glue method.
3. Fastening with clamps.

But before we consider in more detail how to fix a floorboard, you need to know what it is.

Floor board - features

Modern floorboards are a technologically advanced and functional material. The main feature is the presence of a tongue-and-groove fixation system and ventilation slots on the back side.

Table 1. Types of floor boards

Fixation with nails

Nail fastening can be selected when laying boards on joists or a solid base. The method of driving nails is done in several ways - through a groove, through a ridge or through the body of the board. The first two cases provide hidden fastening, and in the third option, the caps will need to be subsequently masked using wood putty, if this is a finished floor, or left as is, if the flooring is rough.

At the first stage, logs are installed - timber with a square cross-section is placed in increments of 60 - 70 cm. It is important to treat it with antiseptics. If insulation is to be laid, the pitch between the joists should correspond to its width.

The first board is laid with a tenon against the wall, and the tenon is cut off. The board is fixed in such a way that the caps do not interfere with the installation of the plinth.

The subsequent lags are fixed with the nails placed in the grooves at an angle of 45 degrees.

In the same way, you can fasten boards through a tenon, only in this case you will first have to drill a hole for the fastener so that the tenon does not crack during the nailing process.

Note! When laying boards over joists whose length is less than the length of the room, it is important to control the location of the joints of two lamellas - the joint should be located in the center of the joist.

Fixation with self-tapping screws

Just as in the method described above, self-tapping screws are used for laying boards over joists or a solid base. The scheme is simple: a self-tapping screw is screwed into the tongue at an angle of 45 degrees.

Unlike nails, which have a smooth surface and over time begin to loosen under load, causing the flooring to creak, self-tapping screws are more firmly fixed to the solid board.

Note! A pre-drilled hole for a self-tapping screw will help prevent damage to the tongue.

Table 2. Coating installation process

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, retreating 1 cm to form a compensation gap.
	The board is fixed to the joist. Subsequently, the head of the screw will be hidden under the baseboard. Important! Laying is done using the floating method, so the plinth is fixed either to the floor or to the wall, but in no case to both surfaces at the same time.
	Further fixation of the lamellas is possible in two ways - open and closed. In the first, long self-tapping screws are used, which securely fix the board to the joist, passing right through the first.
	If the coating is clean, then the cap will need to be masked using wood putty.
	To ensure a tight fit of the lamellas, they are hammered through a block so as not to damage the tenon.
	And they tighten it with a mallet, making the gap as tight as possible.
	To fix the boards in a hidden way, pre-drill a hole.
	Then, a self-tapping screw is drilled at an angle of 45 degrees.
	The boards are pulled up - in this case the cap will not interfere if it is sunk deeper.

Fastener selection

The plank flooring is made using special self-tapping screws, which, due to their structure, are able to ensure the tightest possible fastening of the lamellas and create a durable floor covering. They differ from other self-tapping screws in their shape and protective layer.

When choosing screws for fixing floor boards, it is necessary to choose products that are suitable specifically for working with wood, as they have special performance properties:

1. The length can be selected depending on the thickness of the board. With a standard cross-section of a self-tapping screw of 3.5 mm, its length varies from 35 to 50 mm, in increments of 5 mm (40, 45).
2. Special screws for wood have an anti-corrosion protective coating.
3. The self-tapping screws at the tip are equipped with a special cutter, which allows you to avoid pre-drilling the hole. Such a screw fits more tightly into the array and securely fixes the board.
4. The milling cut of the self-tapping screw is made at an angle at which the fastener easily sinks into the wood without splitting it.
5. Wood screws are distinguished by their structure - there is no milling thread on top to ensure a tighter fit of the board to the base.

Due to the anti-corrosion coating, metal fasteners are protected for a long time from moisture and the formation of rust, which can weaken its fixation in the array.

The special structure of the screw - with a cutter at the tip and a smooth shaft near the head - allows for the tightest fit of the element into the wood.

Due to the presence of a streamlined head, the self-tapping screw, when screwed in, is qualitatively recessed into the wood, which has a positive effect on the quality of the assembly of the plank flooring.

Self-tapping screws with a conical head and incomplete threads are used in the following cases:

1. When attaching an engineered or solid board to a solid base - plywood, OSB board or chipboard.
2. When laying boards along joists.
3. When fixing wall material (lining, block house, imitation timber) to wood sheathing.
4. When fixing skirting boards to wooden walls.

Installation with glue

Laying with glue is carried out in the presence of a continuous flooring made of chipboard or plywood, or on a concrete, flat base. In the first case, you can combine installation with glue and screws. The method is used when laying engineered boards, as well as piece or modular parquet.

This installation method is possible where the height of the room requires a small thickness of the floor structure. Particular attention is paid to preparing the base, which should be smooth and even. If the laying will take place on a screed, then it is leveled with special compounds to increase adhesion to the glue.

If a continuous flooring is to be installed, then moisture-resistant plywood 18 mm thick is mounted on top of the waterproofing layer. It is attached to the base, cleared of debris and dust, with dowels or screws.

To apply the adhesive composition, use a notched trowel.

1. As with floating installation, you must step back at least 1 cm from the wall.
2. A strong joint will be achieved if glue is applied to the grooves when joining the lamellas.
3. The second row begins to be laid with a shift. You can use a fragment of a cut board from the first row.
4. After laying several rows, you need to take a break and let the glue set. After this you can continue working.
5. The adhesive layer should not exceed a thickness of 2 mm.

Additionally, you can use self-tapping screws to secure the lamellas more tightly.

Use of hidden fasteners

With the help of hidden fasteners, you can create an aesthetically attractive plank flooring with high quality and in a short time. Their advantages include the following:

1. Quick installation - using one fastener, two lamellas are simultaneously fixed to the base.
2. Simple and fast installation process.
3. Durability and quality of elements.
4. Anti-corrosion protection.

The principle of laying the board in this way is to fix the fasteners with self-tapping screws and attach subsequent lamellas to it. Only the fastener itself can differ.

Table 3. Laying boards using the NailDECK Twin fastener

Illustration	Description
	The first board is fixed with a self-tapping screw.
	The fastening element is attached to self-tapping screws.
	The second board is placed on the hidden installation element.
	Using a rubber hammer, hammer the board so that it firmly takes its place.

Another type of hidden fastener is “GvozDECK Classic”. With its help, you can quickly install the deck using only a hammer.

Table 4. Laying the board using a fastener

Illustration	Description
	The first board is fixed with a self-tapping screw.
	The fasteners are fixed at an angle of 45 degrees.
	Using a hammer, the fasteners are adjusted so that they are positioned vertically relative to the sheathing.
	A self-tapping screw is installed into the mounting hole of the fastening element.
	Install and tamp down the second board.

The type of fastener is selected depending on the type of board.

Laying floor boards along joists

The method of laying floor boards on logs is relevant for private wooden houses and log houses, buildings made of other materials, as well as for apartments with reinforced concrete floors with a sufficient ceiling height. Flooring with joists or beams is an alternative to cement screed and is used when the base is weakened and cannot support the bulk of the self-leveling floor.

Wooden flooring laid in this way can be rough or finished, or it can even combine a rough structure with insulation and a finishing decorative layer of high-quality boards. In the latter case, additional finishing of the boards with varnish, wax, oil or paint will be required.

Wooden floors always look expensive and beautiful, they are durable and environmentally friendly, so they can be used for bedrooms and children's rooms. For the arrangement of rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, baths, wood is used that is resistant to moisture, dries quickly and is not subject to deformation under the influence of temperature changes.

The nuances of making wooden flooring using joists

The main feature of any wooden floor is the vulnerability of the material to moisture, which wood can absorb from the environment, to deformation due to temperature changes and a tendency to rot. In this regard, before installing them, the logs and the floor board on all sides are carefully treated with antiseptic compounds.

The nuances of making plank flooring using joists include the following:

1. When attaching boards to joists, it is important to ensure they are securely fastened. As a result, cracks and voids should not form, and sagging of logs and boards should not be allowed.
2. If the coating is finishing, then it is important to ensure their maximum adjacency to each other, using special expanding wedges.
3. It is important to choose the correct screw length - ideally it should be 2.5 times the thickness of the lamella.
4. Before tightening the screw, you need to drill a hole with a smaller diameter for it. The exception is special wood screws, which have a special cutter at the end.
5. When installing the finishing coating, it is recommended to use a hidden method of fastening the boards. If the fastening is open, then the heads of the screws are hidden using wood putty, matched to the color of the board.
6. When purchasing boards, it is advisable to choose material from one batch so that the shade and degree of drying of the lamellas match.

Possible mistakes

The most dangerous mistake is neglecting the installation of a vapor barrier layer. For its manufacture, dense polyethylene or penofol is used, with which you can also increase the sound insulation of the room. If vapor barrier is abandoned, the wooden flooring will soon begin to rot, mold, creaks and signs of destruction will appear.

The second mistake is choosing the wrong wood regarding humidity. The optimal value is 15%. As the ambient humidity increases, wood begins to absorb moisture. If the humidity outside is high, for example, it rains for several days in a row, then it is better to postpone the installation of the floor.

Boards that are too wet become deformed when they dry, cracks and differences form between them, and creaking appears.

It is also important to level the logs so that they are located in a single plane, otherwise, due to differences, the flooring will creak and soon become loose.

Another nuance that should never be neglected is the formation of a compensation gap between the wall and the flooring at least 1 cm wide. With thermal expansion of the material, excess load will not be concentrated in the flooring, which can cause creaking and cracking of the boards .

Flooring by joists - pros and cons

The advantages of a wooden floor made using joists include the following:

1. Natural, environmentally friendly and safe materials.
2. The ability of wood to increase heat and sound insulation in a room.
3. Relatively light weight of the floor structure.
4. Unique natural coating pattern.
5. The space under the joists can be used for laying insulation or hidden communications.

The disadvantages of wooden floors include the following:

1. The material is flammable, so it is necessary to carry out appropriate treatment of the joists and boards.
2. The material is sensitive to moisture and temperature changes.
3. The process of laying a floor is a relatively labor-intensive process. It is necessary to control the tightness of the boards.
4. High cost of material for finishing coating.

Laying on a plywood base

Joists, screed or an existing wooden floor can be used as a base for plywood. Installation of plywood is done using dowels, screws or glue.

Note! When choosing an adhesive method, it is important to choose a composition that will ensure high-quality adhesion to the base material.

Table 5. Laying boards on a plywood base

Illustration	Description
	Plywood sheets are glued to the cleaned and level screed.
	For gluing, a 2-component adhesive composition specially designed for these purposes is used. Apply it in a thin layer using a notched trowel.
	Plywood is laid with seams staggered in each subsequent row. Holes for dowels are made in each sheet in three places - along the edges and in the center. In this case, the hole should be located at a distance of several centimeters from the edge.
	The plywood is pulled to the screed with dowels.
	After laying, the plywood is sanded.
	After this, use a vacuum cleaner to remove wood dust.
	Before laying the boards, prepare an adhesive solution.
	Starting from the corner, apply glue with a notched trowel.
	When laying diagonally, work begins from the corner, not forgetting to leave a gap from the wall.
	Additionally, the board is fixed with a self-tapping screw to the plywood base.

Video - Self-tapping screws for wooden floors

A self-tapping screw is a fastening element that consists of a rod with an external thread and a head. When the product is screwed into the required part, an internal thread is formed, which allows for the most durable connection of the workpieces. When choosing a suitable self-tapping screw for wood, it is necessary to take into account not only the specific type of product, but also its length.

Classification of mesite wood by color

Manufacturers produce many varieties of fasteners used for working with wooden workpieces. The main characteristic feature of such products is the wide thread. However, there are self-tapping screws with fine threads, and most often they are used for working with hardwood.

Depending on the color, hardware is:

• Black, used primarily for rough work. This is mainly due to the fact that these products have a rather low resistance to corrosion processes, and with high environmental humidity, rust forms on them quite quickly;
• Yellow and white. Products in this group are coated with brass or zinc, which increases the service life of the fasteners. Both options are quite expensive.

Rules for choosing the length of the self-tapping screw

When choosing hardware for working with wooden parts, you must follow a simple rule. The self-tapping screw must enter the main workpiece to a depth of up to 1/3 of the thickness of the attached part. If two wooden blanks are additionally secured with corner elements, then the hardware should go to a depth of up to 1/4 of the part being attached.

Based on this, certain conclusions can be drawn:

• Self-tapping screws up to 35 mm long are ideal for fastening plasterboard structures to a wooden base, and in addition, they are perfect for working with wooden frame cladding and OSB;
• The hardware, the length of which is 51 mm, is ideal for working on two-layer cladding of a wooden frame with plasterboard slabs. It is recommended to carry out such an operation in places where there is increased traffic;
• If you use hardware with a length of 75 mm or more, then you must first drill a small hole in the wooden base. Otherwise, microcracks may occur and the fibers will be damaged;
• If there is a need to use self-tapping screws with a length of 100 mm or more, then additional difficulties may arise. And therefore, to avoid them, it is enough to drop a little machine oil into the pre-drilled hole.

The Stroy Plus company directly cooperates with leading manufacturers of fasteners, and therefore guarantees that all products presented in the catalog fully comply with GOST requirements. By contacting us, you will have the opportunity to purchase self-tapping screws at affordable prices. And if during the work you have any questions, our managers are ready to give you recommendations. Call us or write, and we will help you not only save money, but also save your time.

Self-tapping screws