The importance of the waterproofing process in the bathroom. Do-it-yourself waterproofing in the bathroom Do-it-yourself waterproofing in the bathroom

Building codes require that waterproofing a bathroom must be done. This requirement is due to the significant damage that a water spill can cause to the supporting structures of the building.

You need to understand that a water leak in the bathroom damages not only the finishing of the underlying room, but also everything around - wherever the water can spread, many floors down and even to the sides. Water damage to electrical systems is also a significant threat to building safety.

In your own home, where there are no neighbors downstairs, the question is: is waterproofing necessary in the bathroom? - can be decided in favor of saving on such an operation. The neatness of the residents and high-quality care of the plumbing is a completely reliable alternative to waterproofing the bathtub in your home - before the first flood, of course.

Waterproofing your bathroom floor is required to prevent the inevitable occasional water leaks from spreading. Even in the event of a serious breakdown, the apartment owner has some time to take decisive action before the water leaves the bathroom.

Many apartment residents can remember the relief they felt when they realized that water from an uncovered washbasin faucet had flooded the entire floor, but the ceiling of the neighbors below was not damaged. This means that the waterproofing is done correctly.

Many have other memories from accidental spills in the bathroom - a very small amount of water completely goes to the neighbors below - in the absence or non-functional waterproofing of the bathtub.

In buildings with wooden structures, the role of waterproofing can hardly be overestimated. Just one moistening of beams or frame elements is enough for a center of fungal infection to appear in such a place. Inconspicuous, systematic soaking of load-bearing wooden structures will quickly lead to their rotting, and as a result, to a loss of load-bearing capacity.

Main types of waterproofing

A considerable variety of means for waterproofing a bathtub comes down to three basic types:

1. Pasted waterproofing.
2. Coating.
3. Metal.

Materials for adhesive insulation are roofing felt or its analogue and mastic, which is used to glue it to structures. This is the most reliable scheme, characterized by low sensitivity to base deformations. Both roofing felt and mastic work in such an insulating layer.

Materials for coating bathtub waterproofing are compositions in liquid form. They have different compositions of active ingredients that correspond to the characteristics of the object.

Coating compositions are distinguished according to several characteristics:

• the presence of bitumen - a reliable but toxic material with its own disadvantages;
• Possibility of use on wet surfaces;
• the need to use reinforcing materials - meshes;
• type of main active ingredient - polymer, cement composition, latex or rubber based compositions;
• the nature of the action is penetrating or superficial.

Metal waterproofing is a forgotten method in which the waterproofing of the bathroom floor was made in the form of a shallow trough made of metal. This method is sometimes resorted to today - such a trough made of stainless steel or non-ferrous metal represents complete, absolute, one hundred percent protection against leaks.

Metal waterproofing can withstand vibrations and even slight deformations of building structures without loss of quality - no modern materials can give this result.

The basic principle of waterproofing

No matter how your bathroom floor is waterproofed, it won't last long without a solid foundation. This is the basic principle - how to waterproof a bathroom.

When considering the design of a building, you need to keep in mind the need to properly arrange the base for waterproofing. This is especially important for those who build and repair housing with their own hands. Here are the main requirements for such a foundation:

1. Sufficient strength, water resistance and durability.
2. Inviolability, absence of deformations of any kind.
3. Suitability for fastening (sticking) materials of waterproofing layers or the ability to accept impregnation with liquid agents.
4. Smooth surface and uniformity.

The greatest number of such requirements are satisfied by cement-sand screed or concrete preparation, which is applicable to modern floor structures. Such a screed in the form of a reinforced slab is used even in floors over wooden beams, which rely on its weight. The screed on the beams can be 30-80 mm thick.

A waterproofing membrane laid on top of wooden beams is the first operation of waterproofing a bathroom floor in an old house

It is possible to use other materials as a base for pasted waterproofing layers - asbestos-cement or magnesite sheets and even moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. Such designs are made when it is impossible to use more reliable methods in reconstruction conditions or for houses with a limited service life.

A DIYer may decide to do DIY bathroom waterproofing only temporarily, with the expectation of returning to the job in the future.

Independent choice of waterproofing

To choose which waterproofing is best for a bathroom, the home master focuses on the possibility of installing a high-quality and even base.

If it is not possible to get a level base - a screed or a slab, then you need liquid, coating waterproofing for the bathroom - it will not be possible to properly cover such an uneven surface.

Insufficient base density (porosity) also requires a coating structure. In each non-standard case, it is possible to use several waterproofing agents - their compatibility is indicated by the manufacturers in the instructions for use.

The master can count on the use of waterproofing tape - such a synthetic strip, sometimes reinforced, will reliably cover the joints and seams, the most vulnerable areas of the floor structure and its junction with the walls. The tape can be used in all doubtful cases, using it as a patch.

When thinking about protecting the floor from water, you need to remember that you also need waterproofing of the bathroom walls - at least in the form of a strip or tape at the bottom of the walls. It is reasonable to protect walls, especially external ones, in places with a high risk of moisture - in such cases, choose the right device for liquid, coating waterproofing. You need to process walls with your own hands, taking into account the compatibility of the material used with adhesive for tiles or other future coating.

The places where pipes pass through the screed and waterproofing require special attention. It is best to simply avoid installing such places in a new house, and where this is not possible, it is better to use roofing sealants - they have shown the highest reliability and durability. It is very good if it is possible to renew the sealant in such places.

If the master performs all the work with his own hands according to the instructions for the materials used, then you can count on their sufficient quality and durability.

Some features of self-performing waterproofing

A craftsman who makes insulating structures with his own hands must understand that they are a reliable vapor-tight layer. That's why waterproofing the ceiling in the bathroom will help make this room warmer - steam will not moisten the ceiling insulation on the top floor. For the same purpose, a continuous waterproofing tape can be made along all walls - these structures will also not be moistened. Such a solution requires one condition - reliable, constantly running ventilation.

Whatever the waterproofing of the walls in the bathroom, it should not impair the quality of the finish. It is best to use cement-based coating compounds for this purpose - they will not interfere with the reliable adhesion of the finishing layers to the solid wall.

Insulating tape deserves the closest attention, which can be used to strengthen the weak points of the waterproofing layer - joints and junctions, differences in height, places where pipes pass through the screed. If necessary, even bitumen-based roofing tape can be used.

All work related to waterproofing must be of the highest quality, from screeds to roofing felt. Not only are these layers inaccessible for inspection during operation, but checking their performance is also impossible. The craftsman provides the required level of quality with his own hands.

Many coating layers can be reinforced with synthetic mesh or fiberglass. Even a fiberglass tape around the perimeter of the bathroom with a wrap on the walls is an additional factor of reliability.

Waterproofing and threshold

Everyone understands that the absence of a threshold in the bathroom and a floor without a decrease in level makes waterproofing and screed practically meaningless - the water will go into the rooms. A professional and an amateur craftsman can find a way to keep water out of the bathroom. Here's what you can do:

• tiling the floor with a barely noticeable slope from the door;
• consider how to use existing electronic leak sensors;
• Perhaps it will be possible to arrange a drain to remove water that appears on the floor, even in the form of a non-standard individual design that home craftsmen love to make.

Protecting an apartment building, your own home, and neighbors from flooding is an important matter and deserves the most serious attention.

The bathroom is the wettest room in the apartment, and to avoid various troubles, you need to waterproof the room. This stage of work when finishing a bathroom is necessary for several reasons: the possibility of accidentally flooding neighbors is eliminated, for example, if the communication system fails, high humidity will not destroy the material from which the structure is made.

A waterproofing layer in the bathroom is necessary, and the quality of the coating will depend on the type of material and its correct application. Today, in the building materials market you can be offered insulating materials of different types for installation. The most popular ones can be identified:

• Pasted insulation - sold in rolls or in the form of a film, they differ in the installation method: the first type must be heated before installation, the second covers the surface without thermal effects.
• Coating material - powder or in the form of a paste, is produced on the basis of polymers, bitumen or mastic.

• Liquid insulation is one of the most popular. You can easily cover not only the floor, but also the ceiling and walls. There are two types of liquid insulation:
  • Liquid glass is a solution of potassium and sodium. This material does not create a film; it penetrates deeply into the surface, reliably plugging all cracks and pores, thereby forming a protective layer that effectively protects against moisture penetration.
  • Liquid bitumen is an emulsion diluted with water. The property of this material is that when applied to the surface, not only a protective layer is formed due to deep penetration, but also a durable film on the surface.

How to properly install waterproofing

There is nothing complicated in the process of waterproofing a bathroom floor - you can do it yourself. It is enough to know in what order the installation should take place, and the result will be satisfactory.

Any work should begin with surface preparation. If the bathroom is not in a new building, then you need to remove all the old coverings, that is, clean the walls and floor down to concrete. And only after this, begin work related to insulating the room, which will take place in stages:

• surface priming;
• a layer of waterproofing, the material you preferred;
• screed arrangement;
• leveling the surface, if necessary;
• final decorative coating.

Waterproofing is distributed according to certain rules:

• The most basic thing is to apply the material to the surface. If waterproofing is done only on the floor, then it should extend onto the walls by at least 15 centimeters. You must not spare the material and not skimp on its quality. The main thing is that the layer is uniform, without breaks.
• The entire perimeter of the bathroom or shower must be carefully treated.
• It is good to coat the surface where communications pass.
• It is worth insulating the walls in the places where plumbing fixtures are installed; for example, the level of the toilet cistern should be insulated, as well as the place where the washing machine is installed.

It is advisable to insulate the entire bathroom, including the ceiling, but if there is no time for this. Without funds, special attention is paid to the floor and places where plumbing is installed.

Installation of waterproofing

So, as previously written, the room is cleared of everything unnecessary, including old coatings. If during the dismantling work it turns out that the pipes of the communication system are in poor condition, then they need to be replaced with new ones.

Also, during dismantling, quite large cracks in the base may open up, which must be filled with construction foam, which, after drying, is cut to the level of the floor or wall.

It is better to leave the laying of communications for later. At this stage, a drawing of the location of plumbing fixtures is made.

The surface priming stage is mandatory, as adhesion increases and in addition, some deep penetration primers have additional water protection.

Protective layer of liquid insulation

The material is very convenient to use; it lies flat on the surface without creating seams, which is not unimportant. In addition, it not only insulates the room, but also protects it from the appearance of fungus and mold.

You can apply the material in 3 ways:

• Spraying using a spray gun with nozzles of the required size. This method is used only in cases where the surface to be treated has a large area. The disadvantage of this method is the inability to control the thickness of the insulation layer.
• Coloring is the most popular method. It takes a lot of time, which can be reduced by using a roller on the entire surface and only working on the corners with a brush.
• Pouring is a simple and effective technology. It can only be used on horizontal surfaces, but the composition penetrates well into pores and cracks, clogging them well.

According to professional builders, liquid waterproofing is the highest quality and easiest way to protect a room from moisture. This coating lasts more than 30 years and is not a complex technological process.

Coating material

These compositions require preliminary preparation before application. This is done according to the instructions that are written on the packaging, which must be strictly followed.

Installation technology:

• You need to start installing this type of waterproofing from the corners.
• Particular attention is paid to the junction of the floor and the wall. Experts advise sealing these places with a special sealing tape before applying insulation.

• Only after these two stages does the application of the base layer begin, which is arranged using a spatula. It is enough to pour the waterproofing material onto the floor and level it to a thickness of one and a half millimeters over the entire surface.
• There should be several layers, but not less than two. Each subsequent layer is made after the previous one has dried.
• Such waterproofing is afraid of drafts during the installation stage, so you need to take care that there are no drafts, and dust should not get onto the surface.

The number of layers of coating waterproofing can be increased to five if there is an urgent need for this, for example, children live in the apartment and there is a high probability of flooding of neighbors.

Installation of roll insulation

The most difficult material to install, although quite cheap. Before you start laying, you need to measure the room and mark it. This is done for this purpose. To cut the required amount of material from a roll for simpler flooring in a small bathroom hanging. In addition, it is worth remembering that many roll materials require heating during installation.

Installation tips:

• Warming up the insulation tapes can be done efficiently only with the use of a heating pad or a blowtorch; you just need to work with extreme caution. Open flames and high temperatures may cause the material to ignite.
• When using self-adhesive material, the surface is prepared very carefully. The strip to be laid must be rolled thoroughly with a rubber roller to prevent bubbles. Walls also work well if such insulation is used.
• The strips are overlapped by 5 centimeters.
• Once all the material is laid on the surface, the joints are well coated with bitumen or special mastic.

Disadvantages of using this type of insulation for bathrooms in an apartment:

• before laying roll insulation, the surface will have to be leveled, since the deviation along unevenness should not be more than two millimeters;
• Before treatment, the surface will need to be thoroughly dried, since the insulation may simply not stick in damp places;
• the smell of bitumen, which is not only pungent and pungent, but also toxic, so its use in a residential apartment is highly undesirable.

How to insulate ceilings

Although many people neglect this, insulating the ceilings in the bathtub is necessary; it will protect you from unexpected flooding by neighbors above. This process is not much different from waterproofing the entire room, but not all materials are suitable and the work will be labor-intensive. Give preference to liquid or coating materials; working with them in this situation will be easier.

It is advisable to pre-glue the corners of the connection between the ceiling and the walls with insulating tape and only after that apply the insulation composition.

Lime-cement plaster, applied with a primer, after application and drying, forms an excellent waterproofing layer on walls and ceilings.

Final stage

Once the waterproofing layer is ready, you can begin pouring the screed. It is better if the mixture is purchased in a store (the assortment is now quite large). But if you decide to do everything yourself, then the screed should be cement with a small addition of sand. The screed will dry, depending on the layer, within a week, and only after that it will be possible to lay the topcoat.

In custody

Many people are afraid to do waterproofing in the bathroom themselves, but as we can see, the process is not as complicated as they think. At the moment, an abundance of materials and tools have made the process of laying the insulating layer so easy that you can quickly and efficiently carry out the installation yourself, without involving a team of professionals.

Any, even the most outstanding design, expensive plumbing fixtures and Spanish ceramics are worth nothing if the waterproofing of the bathroom floor under tiles is done in violation of unwritten rules - there is no such thing as too much insulation, and any savings on waterproofing materials can ruin the results of expensive repairs in a matter of weeks. Making a reliable barrier in the bathroom is not a particular problem even for a beginner in the construction business, especially since the task does not require much physical strength, and the market is simply overflowing with a variety of waterproofing materials.

What are the purposes of waterproofing a bathroom floor?

Despite the huge number of construction recommendations telling how to waterproof a bathroom floor with your own hands, for many owners of new apartments and houses the need to install a waterproofing layer is not always obvious. Most often, would-be craftsmen are confused by stories that concrete does not allow water to pass through, and you can lay tiles on the floor slab, even without a cement screed for the floor in the bathroom.

This is all nonsense. It is necessary to waterproof the floor, and sometimes insulate it, for two simple reasons:

• Cast high-quality concrete practically does not allow water and water vapor to pass through, but only under ideal conditions. Within a year after commissioning, the concrete floor slab will be covered with millions of microcracks through which water vapor will rise from the lower floors, basement or foundation;
• It is impossible to avoid leaking water spills on the surface of the bathroom floor. Even high-quality tiles and self-leveling floor coverings lose their ability to retain water and water vapor over time. Some of the moisture will go into the concrete floor covering or foundation, and some will penetrate through capillaries and pores into the walls of the bathroom and other rooms.

As a result, the walls in an apartment or house will regularly become damp, and tiles will fall off even when using high-quality brands of tile adhesive in the bathroom. If there is no waterproofing under the floor covering, then the better and more durable the floor covering, the worse the condition of the bathroom. It's a paradox, but it happens. In bathrooms with wooden or even concrete floors, the humidity of the air and walls is much less than in a room with poorly laid tiles.

Most tilers explain it this way - the dense structure of the tile or self-leveling floor prevents accumulated moisture from evaporating and being removed by natural ventilation flows. Perhaps this is true, but it’s better not to risk it and immediately, during the first renovation, waterproof and screed the bathroom floor under the tiles.

For your information! Often the reason for refusing to install waterproofing is a somewhat distorted understanding of insulating materials and methods of their installation. For some reason, most customers believe that floor waterproofing can only be done with bitumen or resin mastic.

This is not entirely true; it is not necessary to use waterproofing for the bathroom floor based on molten bitumen, which emits fumes, a lot of unpleasant odors and toxic substances. Modern materials for arranging waterproofing inside residential premises have virtually no strong odors; in addition, the technology involves covering the insulating layer with a cement-sand screed.

What materials are suitable for waterproofing the bathroom floor, what to choose

It cannot be said that bitumen, especially modified with latex or styrene, roll materials are not used for internal waterproofing of bathroom floors. As a rule, roll and coating waterproofing is used as a simpler and cheaper alternative to expensive modern two-component mixtures and insulating compounds. It’s one thing if you need to waterproof the floor on a small area of ​​a bathroom or bathroom, but it’s another matter when the number is dozens of squares. In this case, the costs only for consumables for waterproofing the floor may differ by an order of magnitude or more.

The list of materials for waterproofing bathroom floors available for do-it-yourself use comes down to the following points:

• Rolled pasting sheets, both based on a simple resin-bitumen composition, for example, roofing felt, and expensive isospans with a polymer-bitumen protective layer;
• Coating masses, pastes, mastics based on one- and two-component bitumen polymers;
• Acrylic and acrylic-styrene liquid compositions, providing an average level of protection, absolutely harmless, therefore most often recommended for work with waterproofing floors inside residential premises;
• Impregnating compositions based on cement, finely ground sand and a composition of very expensive chemical additives. Essentially the same concrete, but with special properties;
• Self-adhesive waterproofing membranes;
• Polyurethane and latex- polyurethane mastics and emulsions that provide a very dense and durable waterproofing layer. They are always used in sets with self-adhesive insulating tapes and sheets of a similar composition.

There are also special materials for arranging industrial waterproofing of foundations and other building structures. They can also be used to make a floor waterproofing layer, but their characteristics are somewhat worse. At the same time, as a rule, they are not worked with manually, but are applied using special spraying equipment. It is believed that working with two-component compositions based on styrene and latex is necessary in the open air or in a draft due to the release of a small amount of polymerization products.

Technology for waterproofing concrete floors

First of all, you will need to carry out a small set of preparatory measures, since any insulating material, be it a rolled sheet or liquid waterproofing of a bathroom floor, must be laid on an absolutely clean, dry and flat surface.

The general procedure for arranging a waterproofing layer comes down to the following operations:

• Removing dirt and washing the concrete base of the bathroom floor using clean water, without detergents;
• Drying the floor surface with a fan heater is the longest process, taking a couple of days;
• Impregnation of the floor surface with Penetron or any similar penetrating composition;
• Application of coating waterproofing;
• Laying concrete screed under the tiles.

That's all, the technology is quite simple, and all the fuss with arranging waterproofing in the apartment's bathroom, taking into account the time for concreting the screed, can be completed in a couple of days.

We do waterproofing in the apartment bathroom

In the listed set of operations, penetrating compounds are of greatest interest. Essentially, it is a ready-made dry concrete mixture of cement and very finely ground sand. Thanks to special chemical additives, diluted with water and a small amount of polyhydric alcohol, the mixture becomes able to penetrate into the smallest micron cracks and pores of the concrete bathroom floor. What does it mean?

If you use a proprietary penetrating composition, then the concrete acquires the required level of waterproofing and resistance to water after the second treatment with the penetrating mass.

Moreover, the hydrobarrier perfectly retains water, since the depth of penetration of the emulsion into concrete is at least 25-30 mm. If the concrete slab is more than 10 years old, then it is quite possible that the penetrating primer can go 2-3 times deeper.

• The material is thoroughly stirred in the jar and poured into an open container, possibly into a painting tray;
• Using a roller or brush, apply liquid waterproofing in the corner areas of the bathroom with access to the walls of at least 20 cm;
• Strips of insulating tape 15-20 cm wide are glued to the corners, both vertical and horizontal.

Paint the walls and floor surface in the bathroom in two passes. Each layer must be dry to touch and hardened. Before applying the second layer, a sheet of fiberboard is laid on the surface of the bathroom floor, on which you can stand without the risk of damaging the still relatively fresh layer of waterproofing.

Features of waterproofing the floor in the bathroom

Tape reinforcement is extremely important, firstly, it helps prevent part of the viscous mass from flowing onto the floor surface, and secondly, it provides increased strength in the corner areas, which can be very useful if the house is panel or new, and the shrinkage process has not yet ended.

To waterproof a bathroom floor, it is best to use polyurethane and polyurethane-latex insulating materials; they are much stronger and more resistant to most negative factors.

The technology for applying bitumen mass is practically no different from the scheme for working with branded compounds, the only difference is that the corners are reinforced not with polymer tape, but with PVC mesh. All pipes coming out of the bathroom floor must also be treated with mastic to a height of at least 30-40 mm.

The last stage, the simplest and most scandalous, is the arrangement of a cement-sand screed. As a rule, additional floor screed in the bathroom under the tiles eats up at least a couple of centimeters of height, and it is also expected to lay tiles, which will also need to be given 1.5-2 cm of usable space. What happens: all the most important items, the toilet, washbasin, bathtub, must be dismantled and reinstalled after the tiling is completed. You cannot waterproof the floor and tile base with the bathtub and shower tray remaining in the room.

Option for waterproofing a bathroom in a house or apartment on the first floor

As a rule, in a private house or residential premises on the first floor of apartment buildings, the problem of waterproofing the floor is associated with the need to block dampness and cold coming from the foundation and soil.

A good help when arranging a hydrobarrier is to properly insulate the foundation and underground space, either with expanded clay or with expanded polystyrene sheets. The warmer the floor surface, the less condensation breaks into the bathroom; most of it is carried away in the form of water vapor by the subfloor ventilation.

In addition, tiles laid on uninsulated concrete very quickly become cold and damp due to the condensation of water vapor already inside the bathroom, with all the attendant possibilities for the appearance of fungus and a persistent musty odor. If this has not been done, you will have to lay an additional layer of waterproofing and insulate the floor surface.

Waterproofing a bathroom with self-leveling materials for concrete

For a concrete floor, which is quite common in modern buildings with a basement, waterproofing will need to be done in several stages:

• Laying capital waterproofing under the future insulation layer;
• Bathroom floor insulation;
• Installation of a waterproofing layer over insulation;
• Leveling cement-sand screed.

It is recommended to initially lay waterproofing of the future insulation on the surface of the cold concrete floor of the bathroom. For these purposes, you can use bitumen melt or a more advanced option - fuse a rolled sheet. Since the waterproofing system with insulation is quite cumbersome, the cheapest option made of bitumen can be used for the first insulating layer.

Initially, the cement is cleaned and blown out of dust and minor contaminants, after which the surface is painted over with a primer primer. It can be made on the basis of solvent and a small amount of bitumen. The primer material is applied with a brush as quickly and accurately as possible, preferably under forced draft. The primer is flammable and has a strong odor, so there should be no heating devices or open flames in the bathroom while priming.

A better version of waterproofing under the tiles is built using roofing felt surfacing. It is best to use the lining version of glass roofing material. In addition to good waterproofing characteristics, the base of the floor will be very durable, capable of withstanding any pressure from furniture and tools. At the second stage, the insulation is laid; the gaps between the individual sheets are necessarily rubbed with an adhesive mass.

The last stage is filling the floor with waterproofing based on a cement-acrylic mixture. On sale, such dry compositions are sold as a mixture for self-leveling self-leveling floors. If you prepare the solution strictly according to the recipe, the strength and accuracy of the casting will be such that you can safely lay tiles in the bathroom using it. It is enough to lay a compensating tape along the contour of the bathroom floor and cover the EPS sheets with a vapor barrier film, and you can pour the finished solution. To avoid the formation of bubbles, the waterproofing screed is rolled with a spiked roller.

If mineral wool or vermiculite, glass granulate, or any other material that can withstand high temperatures is used as insulation, then instead of an expensive bulk composition for waterproofing, you can use the same rolled bitumen material. All that remains is to complete the cement-sand screed and begin laying the tiles in a week.

We lay waterproofing on the surface of a wooden or plank floor

Today, houses with plank or wooden floors in the bathroom are considered an anachronism, but forty years ago similar options were built, especially in the latest Khrushchev-era projects, where there was no basement; the building frame was erected on shallow foundations.

The main difficulty in installing waterproofing under tiles is the flexibility and instability of the wooden floor. Even new wood floors, whether plank, slatted or parquet, had some deflection under load. An attempt to lay tiles in the traditional way led to both peeling of the waterproofing and chipping of the tile covering.

Therefore, the problem of waterproofing and laying tiles in the bathroom was solved in two ways. The first option - the floorboards were dismantled, the underground space was filled with expanded clay, after which sand and gravel were filled. Next, a vapor barrier film was laid, a screed with a thickness of at least 2 cm was poured. Further waterproofing was installed according to a simplified scheme:

• A melt of bitumen was poured onto the concrete screed without any primer, and at the same time sheets of roofing material were rolled out. To prevent the waterproofing from coming apart at the joints, the seams were glued with additional strips of roofing material;
• Next, a new layer of screed was poured over the surface of the cooled roofing material, this time with a wire reinforcing mesh. The thickness of the top layer of the cement-sand mixture was 25-30 mm.

Primitive and imperfect, at first glance, waterproofing technology had its advantages. The concrete floor in the bathroom, thanks to the expanded clay cushion, had excellent sound and sound insulation, was very warm and durable. The presence of a waterproofing layer between two concrete layers worked as a stress reliever. If this version of the floor leaked, it was only at the edge joints with the walls.

Modern technology for waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom under tiles looks a little different. The floor boards are not dismantled, but are repaired and restored. The paint was removed, and wedges were driven into the cracks at the joints to increase the rigidity of the floor.

At the second stage, the bathroom floorboards were covered with plywood or OSB, the joints and the floor surface were glued with acrylic or polyurethane primer. As a result, the material of the wooden floor acquired the rigidity of concrete. The rest of the work on installing waterproofing in the bathroom under the tiles was carried out according to the standard scheme. A waterproofing PVC membrane is laid on the base of the floor; as a rule, the canvas is attached only along the lines along the walls and at the corners. There was no need for more. Due to its high strength and self-leveling ability, the canvas perfectly adapted to all unevenness, especially at the joints of slabs.

The next step is to make a screed on the waterproofing under the tile sticker; for this, a regular cement-sand mixture with the addition of sealing additives-modifiers is suitable.

Conclusion

The modern method is focused on the use of safer and more durable materials. At the same time, the bathroom is equipped with an equally warm and dry floor, since under the layer of waterproofing an air cushion remains in the underground, which, among other things, very effectively removes excess moisture and condensation. But in this case, it is necessary to bring the ventilation windows to a level of at least 20 cm for the supply opening; the exhaust opening is connected to the bathroom ventilation duct.

Leaking pipes, water leaving the bathtub or sink - almost everyone has had to deal with these and other similar problems at least once. The consequences are not the most favorable: not only finishing materials, bathroom furnishings and ceilings deteriorate, but also relationships with neighbors living on the floor below.

All of the above can be avoided by promptly installing high-quality waterproofing of the bathroom floor. You are invited to familiarize yourself with general information about moisture barriers, study the properties of the materials used and understand the procedure for independently performing upcoming activities.

There are several methods for waterproofing a bathroom floor, but the goal of each of them boils down to one thing: creating a continuous protective layer that blocks the path of water. The design of such a covering resembles a pallet with a flat bottom and, on average, 100-200 mm thick sides extending onto the walls of the room.

Such a container collects splashed water and condensed moisture, preventing it from penetrating the ceiling and damaging the base. Additionally, the hydrobarrier prevents the formation of mold and the proliferation of other harmful microorganisms.

When choosing a suitable method for waterproofing a bathroom floor, you need to take into account a number of important nuances, among which the most significant are the following:

• condition of the rough foundation;
• flooring material;
• time available for arrangement of the structure;
• the floor on which the premises are located;
• possibility of reducing the height of the room;
• bathroom area;
• complexity of the room configuration;
• availability of additional tools (torch, hair dryer) and experience working with them;
• affordable budget;
• the performer has skills in working with certain materials, etc.

Methods for constructing a moisture barrier

Liquid waterproofing

Basic information

There are many materials on the market that can provide reliable waterproofing of the floor, namely:

• polymer mixtures;
• roofing felt;
• a mixture of soil with bentonite and liquid glass;
• coating compounds;
• adhesive waterproofing.

The last 2 options are the most popular in home construction. The remaining materials from the above list are practically not used due to high cost, unpleasant odor, or unacceptably high level of loads created on the floor.

You can familiarize yourself with the design features of pasting and coating materials in the following table.

Table. Materials for waterproofing bathroom floors

The composition of both materials mentioned in the table includes bitumen, but there is no need to worry about its danger to human health: thanks to the introduction of polymers, the toxic properties of the main component were reduced to insignificant levels.

Details about coating materials

Modern insulating materials are produced in the form of mastics, pastes and dry compositions. Before use, dry mixtures are mixed with water or a special emulsion - this point must be discussed in the manufacturer’s instructions. Liquid and paste insulating coatings do not require preliminary preparation - the mixture is initially ready for use for its intended purpose.

To apply liquid and paste compositions, wide brushes or paint brushes are used. The mixture, which has the consistency of plasticine, is spread over the surface using a notched trowel.

The possible thickness of the protective layer directly depends on the consistency of the composition. In accordance with this characteristic, the scope of application of existing hydraulic barriers is determined.

Thus, bitumen-based liquid mastics are applied in a double layer. The second layer is arranged perpendicular to the first. The total thickness of the coating should be about 1-1.5 mm. A screed is traditionally poured over the insulation, so there are no special requirements for the condition of the base, with the exception of its dryness, cleanliness and the absence of noticeable damage.

Compositions in paste format are applied in 1-2 continuous layers. The thickness of each layer is from 3 mm. In this case, the paste insulation can simultaneously be used as a screed. In this case, the coating is necessarily reinforced in the same way as a traditional cement screed, only instead of a steel reinforcing mesh, a product with similar functions made of PVC is used.

Important! If a two-layer or even three-layer application of a protective composition is intended, the work steps must be carried out in compliance with a break, the duration of which must be indicated by the manufacturer in the accompanying instructions.

Properties of adhesive materials

The predecessors of modern adhesive materials for waterproofing were roofing felt and roofing felt, which are still widely used for outdoor work. The main disadvantage of the mentioned materials is their low environmental friendliness - the components included in the composition cause significant harm to human health.

Modern roll insulators are based on elastic polyester, flexible fiberglass or fiberglass. The material is coated with bitumen on both sides. On the bottom side there is additionally a special adhesive composition that guarantees high-quality adhesion of the material to the rough surface. The insulation is coated on top with a component that promotes better adhesion to the adhesive mixture used for installing the finishing.

Modern materials for adhesive waterproofing

Pasting materials are classified into 2 categories, the main difference between which is the method of application: the first ones are fused using a construction hair dryer or a gas torch, the second ones can simply be glued by first cutting the strips into pieces of the required size and removing the protective polyethylene film.

The second option is better suited in case of self-arrangement of insulation and lack of skills in working with “heaters” - it is safer, faster and easier. It is better to entrust the construction of a hydraulic barrier using the fusion method to professional builders, because Even with slight overheating and the slightest careless movement, the material can tear. Along with this, even professional builders are increasingly giving preference to self-adhesive insulating materials.

Before gluing the waterproofing, the surface must be leveled and dried. The maximum permissible height difference is 2 mm.

Among the additional advantages of adhesive moisture-proof materials, the following provisions can be noted:

• affordable cost – for many developers this is a determining factor;
• adhesion strength to the rough base;
• the possibility of carrying out subsequent work on finishing the premises without technological interruptions.

In addition, glued waterproofing is the only possible effective method of protecting wooden floors in private households. The elasticity of such materials allows them to firmly cope with wood movements and maintain integrity, despite regular compression and stretching. At the same time, modern roll waterproofing does not prevent the wood from “breathing,” which has a beneficial effect on the service life of the material and its condition as a whole.

About penetrating waterproofing

As a result of using the insulating materials discussed above, the height of the room being equipped will decrease by the thickness of the created layer. If every millimeter is valuable, it makes sense to abandon the use of traditional coating in favor of a special impregnation with moisture-proof properties - penetrating waterproofing.

Such compositions are applied to a pre-moistened base. Penetrating into a damp cement-sand or concrete environment, the impregnation clogs the internal cells of the material, making the structure monolithic and eliminating the possibility of moisture penetrating inside.

Ceiling heights will be kept at the same level. The only significant drawback of such impregnations is their high cost.

Instructions for arranging waterproofing

The owner can choose any of the above options for waterproofing the floor at his discretion. But, as practice shows, the most effective is the integrated use of coating and pasting materials. You are invited to read the instructions on how to independently perform this particular method below.

Preparatory activities

If the room is new and there are no significant differences in height, before starting work you will only need to make sure that there is no dirt or dust on the base. If the bathroom has already been in use, the finishing coating is first removed, followed by the screed is dismantled, if this is justified by the degree of its wear.

Armed with coarse sandpaper or a spatula, remove plaster or other coating from the walls to a height of 10-20 centimeters. As a rule, 10-centimeter “sides” are quite enough. For the rest, be guided by personal preferences, focusing on the operating features of your particular bathroom.

Grease and paint stains, broken fragments, dust and other contaminants are removed. Cracks and other defects are repaired with a special repair compound or ordinary cement. Along the lines where the floor and walls join, a groove of approximately 10 mm in depth and similar width is created. A bentonite cord is placed in the groove. Instead of a cord, you can use cement mortar to fill the recess. As a result, you will ensure maximum resistance of the mating areas to the damaging effects of moisture.

The main stage of work

Having finished with the preparatory activities and activities, proceed to the main stage of work. Cover the floor, as well as adjacent walls, with primer to the height of the “sides” of the insulation pan.

Apply the primer in a double layer, thoroughly rubbing the mixture into the base. The layers are arranged perpendicular to each other.

In places where risers and other communications intersect the floor, fill in liquid waterproofing. Treat the floor and lower part of the walls with bitumen mastic or other selected coating material. While the mixture has not hardened, strengthen the joints of the floor and walls with PVC mesh, slightly recessing it into the material.

Recommendations regarding the required number of layers of mastic/paste are given in the manufacturer's instructions, follow them. Wait for the composition to gain strength. The required time will also be indicated in the attached instructions.

While the coating dries, start cutting the rolled material into strips of the required length. The required indicator is calculated extremely simply: the amount of allowance for the walls is added to the length of the base.

As a rule, the underside of rolled insulation is covered with a special adhesive composition, so there is no need to use third-party mixtures to create the layer - just get rid of the protective polyethylene film. Set aside a distance from the edges of the cut of insulating material along the height of the sides of the protective “pallet” being installed. Glue the main part of the strip to the floor and wipe it firmly with a roller.

Follow the given sequence, laying each new strip with approximately a 10-centimeter overlap on the previous one. As a result, you will get a continuous moisture-proof membrane. Once again, go over the coating with a heavy roller and begin arranging allowances for the walls.

If possible, preheat the bottom of the wall. Next, you will need to fix the free parts of the strips on the walls. To securely fix it in the corners, carefully press the material down using a plank. Finally, treat the areas around the pipes again with bitumen mastic.

Now your bathroom floor is reliably protected from the adverse effects of moisture. You can proceed to further stages of arranging the room, which, as a rule, boil down to pouring screed and laying floor tiles.

Good luck!

Video - DIY bathroom floor waterproofing

Video - How to waterproof a floor

Waterproofing the walls of the bathroom, along with the floor, is primarily intended to prevent flooding from a neighboring apartment, and also, conversely, to prevent flooding of neighbors in the event of a pipeline break.

This contributes to the destruction of both the finishing coating and the wall material itself. Especially if the walls are not concrete, but are made of sand-lime brick, gypsum boards and other small materials that are susceptible to the negative effects of moisture. If the walls are wooden, then the penetration of moisture under the finishing coatings can lead to rotting of the wood and create conditions for the growth of mold and mildew.

To avoid most of the negative consequences associated with high humidity, it is necessary, in addition to the floor, to waterproof the walls of the bathroom.

It is very important to choose the right materials that are best suited for the walls. For example, most bitumen-based waterproofing materials used to protect basement walls are not suitable for waterproofing bathroom walls. It is almost impossible to carry out any finishing wall coverings based on bitumen waterproofing due to poor adhesion, so such materials are not used in bathrooms.

Technologies and materials for waterproofing bathroom walls

Technologies for waterproofing bathroom walls with appropriate materials are divided into three main types:

• coating waterproofing with polymer-cement materials;
• liquid membranes;
• penetrating waterproofing.

Coating waterproofing with polymer-cement materials

On the building materials market, you can select polymer-cement materials for waterproofing from a wide range and from many manufacturers. Their composition is approximately the same: these are dry mixtures of Portland cement, fine quartz sand and polymer elasticizing additives, which give the composition waterproofing properties. Additives in mixtures from some manufacturers may be proprietary and not subject to disclosure.

Dry mixtures can be single-component or consist of two different components that are combined before use. One-component formulations contain dispersive polymer powders as additives, while two-component formulations contain polyacrylic aqueous dispersions.

Tools for working with polymer-cement compositions:

• maklovitsa - a wide brush for applying solutions to large surfaces and a set of smaller brushes for coating narrow areas;
• paint roller;
• set of spatulas;
• level and plumb line - to check the evenness and verticality of the walls;
• a set for plastering work if it is necessary to pre-level the walls - a ladle, a falcon, a rule lath, a trowel, a trowel;
• electric drill with attachments for stirring ready-to-use materials or preparing them from dry mixtures.

Work technology

Before starting work directly on waterproofing, you should prepare the walls, depending on the material you will have to work with and the condition of the walls:

1. The walls must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt.
2. Check the evenness and verticality of the walls with a plumb line and level. If the wall is uneven and there are vertical deviations of 2 mm, it is better to level it using plaster compounds.
3. After the plaster has dried, apply a primer.
4. Apply sealing tape where the floors meet the walls.

There are many polymer-cement waterproofing materials from different manufacturers, we will list some intended only for interior work: “Lakhta Elastic Waterproofing, Hydromax-2”; “Wascon MA15 (WaSCoN MA15)”, “Gidrostop 94”, “WaterPlast”, “Elastoschlämme 1K” and many others.

We cannot indicate here the exact ratios of water and dry mixture for diluting the solution, so it is better to follow the manufacturer’s instructions, which are available on each package. First, pour a certain amount of water into the dry mixture and mix with a drill with a mixer attachment until a homogeneous mass is obtained. If the compositions are two-component, you must also strictly adhere to the recipe for preparing such compositions.

Usually a limited amount of solution is prepared for production in a certain time. If it thickens, then adding water to an already prepared solution is not allowed. Polymer-cement mastic is applied to the surface, which must be prepared and primed using a spatula or spatula successively in two or three layers. The thickness of two-layer insulation is 2-3 mm.

After applying the first layer, it should take from several hours to a day. Before applying the next layer, the first layer must be moistened using a sprayer.

In three layers, it is better to treat walls in areas more susceptible to moisture - around the washbasin, bathtub or shower. During work and while the applied solution sets (about a week), the bathroom should be warm - at least +5 ºС. If the room is very hot, it is necessary to protect the treated walls from drying out by periodically moistening them with water from a spray bottle.

The consumption of polymer-cement materials in terms of the amount of dry mixture is no more than 3-4 kg/m².

After applying all layers of waterproofing, the surface must be looked after for 2-3 days to prevent cracks from forming - periodically moisten it or cover it with film.

A week after applying the composition, you can carry out finishing work with any finishing coatings.

Advantages

Waterproofing a bathroom with polymer-cement compounds is considered effective and popular, as it has many positive properties:

• excellent adhesion to the surface of walls made of concrete, brick, gypsum boards, and any other small materials. On the other hand, finishing materials after waterproofing also adhere well to the polymer-cement surface;
• polymer cement coating has high mechanical strength and is very difficult to damage;
• the technology for applying the composition is very simple and can be done with your own hands without difficulty;
• The composition can be applied to damp surfaces; there is no need to thoroughly dry the walls, which is very important before applying adhesive waterproofing or bitumen-based mastics;
• polymer-cement mixtures are environmentally friendly, they do not contain any materials harmful to health;
• The price is relatively inexpensive compared to other waterproofing materials.

Tools

To apply ready-to-use liquid membranes, since they can be of different compositions, you will need various tools:

• spray;
• set of brushes;
• rollers;
• set of spatulas.

In some cases, waterproofing a bathroom with liquid membranes of the same type can be done using any of the above tools.

Technology

As an example, let’s look at the device technologies and features of several types of membranes.

Membranes

Liquid membranes used for waterproofing work are compositions of various materials: urethane, artificial rubber, vinyl, plastic, polymerized bitumen in combination with a solvent. They are applied in liquid form, and after hardening they form a continuous, seamless membrane. Liquid membranes must be installed only on clean and dry surfaces; in the presence of moisture, the membranes do not stick and form bubbles.

When constructing liquid membranes, it is very important to control their thickness, which should not be less than 1.5 mm. This material has a relative elongation of about 500%, due to which it covers cracks up to several mm wide. The main advantage of liquid membranes is that they can insulate surfaces made of any material - concrete, brick, wood, metal and others - of any complex shape, on ledges and in niches, as well as at the junction of walls and floors.

Waterproofing a bathroom with most types of liquid membranes is done using overalls and personal protective equipment, as they can contain hazardous and toxic chemicals, although there are some types of membranes (silicone) that do not contain hazardous substances.

SOFEXIL silicone membranes

SOFEXIL silicone membranes contain special polymers STP-E (with terminal silanol groups), which give them properties such as short drying time, the ability to polymerize at room temperature due to exposure to water vapor contained in the air, and can be used in a temperature range from -40 up to +80 ºС, do not stick after hardening. Unlike some other types, silicone membranes are environmentally friendly - they do not contain toxic substances, do not contain solvents or have an unpleasant odor, therefore they are especially suitable for interior spaces. In addition, this type of membrane is characterized by high adhesion to any materials, therefore it is suitable for tiling and finishing other materials on walls in the bathroom.

The material is produced ready for use and can be applied using any method – roller, brush or spray. The sufficient thickness of the finished coating is 2-3 mm; it is applied with a sprayer 2-3 times in layers of 1 mm. The consumption is about 1.6 kg/m³. The tensile strength of the membrane is 8.8 N/mm and covers cracks with an opening width of up to 7.5 mm. After application, it dries within 3 hours at temperatures above 20 ºС and relative humidity above 50%.

This membrane consists of a solvent-free synthetic resin in an aqueous dispersion. Available in the form of a paste solution, ready for use in containers of 5, 10 and 25 kg. It differs in that it is applied to walls made of any material - concrete, brick, gypsum boards and plasterboard, wood, foam concrete blocks, plaster, old tile cladding, etc.

It is first necessary to prepare the base: concrete and brick surfaces are cleaned of dirt by rinsing with water or a brush. Gypsum or foam concrete block bases are treated with a primer, which must be purchased complete with the membrane material. Existing tile or stone cladding is primed with the complete primer.

The membrane is applied using a roller, brush, spatula or spray in 2-3 passes approximately 1 mm thick. Each layer is applied crosswise - perpendicular to the previous one after 1-2 hours to allow the previous layer to dry. Material consumption is about 1.5 kg per 1 mm of thickness. After about a day, tiles can be laid on the finished membrane or covered with any other material.

Liquid water-displacing membrane “3 in 1” Nippon Ace

This membrane is designed specifically for waterproofing the surfaces of floors and walls before facing with ceramic tiles. Available in 750 ml aerosol cans and applied by spraying, as well as in 2.4 liter cans, in which case applied with a brush or roller.

The material is a composition containing a polymer component, which, after hardening, creates a waterproof membrane, a primer that increases adhesion to the protected surface and to subsequent tiling, and a herbicidal complex that prevents the occurrence and proliferation of microorganisms - fungus and mold in the bathroom.

A liquid membrane can be used to cover not only dry, but also wet surfaces, since it contains a special additive that displaces moisture from the surface being coated.

This membrane can be used as waterproofing for bathroom walls made of different materials - concrete, brick and stone masonry, wood, plasterboard. The material penetrates into pores and surface irregularities, creating an elastic and impenetrable coating.

Advantages

The use of liquid membranes has the following advantages:

• an impenetrable, seamless, elastic and durable coating is created;
• have good adhesion to any wall material, and any finishing coating fits well on the finished membranes;
• the technology for producing the work is simple and can be done with your own hands in different ways;
• due to its high elasticity, it can cover cracks and other damage on walls without pre-sealing them;
• membranes are resistant to aggressive chemicals. They have high resistance to water containing detergents;
• dry quickly, which greatly reduces the time required for waterproofing and finishing work;
• the service life of the walls is greatly increased;
• protect expensive finishing coating materials from destruction;
• the formation of an environment for harmful microorganisms is excluded when using certain types of membranes.

Penetrating insulation

The use of penetrating waterproofing in the bathroom is most effective when the walls are concrete or reinforced concrete. Operating principle: penetrating waterproofing contains special particles with chemically active properties. These particles penetrate into the smallest pores of the concrete surface and, after moistening, begin to crystallize, clogging all cavities and thereby preventing water from penetrating into the concrete.

One of the most famous and popular penetrating waterproofing materials is Penetron. It is a dry mixture including Portland cement, fine quartz sand and proprietary chemically active substances. The dry mixture is diluted to a certain consistency, then the moistened concrete surface is covered with it.

In addition to the Penetron material, other types of penetrating insulation are used for waterproofing, for example, Lakhta, Hydrotex, Kalmatron, Isopron, etc.

Waterproofing walls under Penetron tiles does not require special construction skills, so it is better to do it yourself.

Tools:

• maklovitsa - a wide brush for applying liquid compositions to large surfaces and a set of smaller brushes for coating narrow areas;
• paint roller for applying liquid compositions;
• set of spatulas;
• electric drill with attachments for stirring ready-to-use materials or preparing them from dry mixtures;
• mortar pump with sprayer.

Technology

The solution is pre-mixed from the dry mixture with water, and the water is poured into the dry mixture. The ratio must be maintained as follows: 400 g of water per 1 kg of dry mixture or by volume - one share of water is added to two parts of the dry mixture.

You need to mix a volume of solution that can be produced in half an hour. If you prepare too much of the mixture, it may thicken, and it is forbidden to dilute the thickened mixture with water.

The concrete surface is pre-moistened generously with water and the first layer is immediately applied using a spatula, spatula or sprayer. After a few hours, when the first layer has set, it is moistened again with water and the second layer is applied.

It is very important to cover the entire surface of the walls evenly without gaps or omissions.

Work can only be carried out in a warm environment at a temperature of +5 °C. The mixture consumption is about 1.1 kg per 1 m² of surface with two passes, calculated as a dry mixture.

With the help of penetrating insulation, you can waterproof, in addition to concrete, walls made of other materials covered with plaster. It is only important that the plaster is not lime or gypsum, but cement-sand, grade not lower than M 150.

The layer of applied penetrating insulation must be maintained for 3 days, avoiding mechanical damage, and at high air temperatures, protect it from drying out by moistening with a spray or covering the surface with film.

More details about the material, its properties, and work technology can be found in the article “”.

Waterproofing bathroom walls using penetrating materials has the following advantages:

• due to the deep penetration of the material into concrete and the formation of expanding crystals that fill all pores and small cavities, a reliable waterproof barrier is created;
• penetrating insulation protects walls made of any materials from water with any chemically aggressive substances;
• the Penetron material changes the properties of concrete for the better - its strength and frost resistance, reliability and durability increase;
• waterproofing bathroom walls protects not only the structures in the bathroom itself, but also prevents moisture from penetrating into other rooms, thereby extending the life of the entire house or apartment.