Waterproofing of residential premises is not discussed. It must always be done, bearing in mind that leaks threaten trouble with neighbors in multi-apartment buildings, or - if we are talking about a private house - damage to property on the lower floors.
Rooms with a specific purpose - a bath and bathrooms - need special attention. There, interaction with water and warm steam is constant, therefore, increased attention must be paid to protection.
Consequences of leaks and condensation
The troubles associated with the aggressive effects of moisture can become both fleeting and insurmountable. Let's take a look at the last option:
- The formation of a favorable environment for the reproduction of mold and fungus spores. Often, it is impossible to get rid of some species throughout the entire operation of the house. Even if the mold is stopped, it is possible that this procedure does not do without the complete dismantling of the coating, which entails significant financial costs for the owner.
- Weakening of the rigidity of the frame. We are talking about wooden structures - racks, beams, logs. Constant leaks and then drying make the load-bearing elements weak due to the appearance of cracks on the surface, which has dried out from the constant difference in media. By the way, this also applies to concrete - crumbling is inevitable.
- Loss of appearance. Humidity leaves yellow spots and stains on light walls. It's definitely not pretty. Depending on the composition of the water, streaks, whitish due to the high percentage of lime, will be visible on dark surfaces.
Now the need for waterproofing the floor under the tiles in the bathroom is clear. Timely measures taken will relieve the listed problems that can negatively affect the longevity of the repair in the bathroom.
Types of waterproofing floors
The industry offers its customers a plethora of options for waterproofing materials suitable for any application.
Raw materials are of the following types:
Roll adhesives
These are polymeric films with a sticky layer, which are laid on top of a concrete screed or wooden floor with an adhesive or fusing method. Dimensions allow waterproofing to be seamless or with one overlap joint.
The material is reinforced with reinforced fiber or mesh. Easy for self-assembly. It is not welcome to use PVC film for waterproofing bathrooms - it does not have sufficient vapor permeability, which increases the risk of mold formation.
Mastics
Based on bitumen, rubber, polymers, they are able to retain a large amount of moisture.
They are laid by melting raw materials and coating them with surfaces intended for waterproofing.
Disadvantage: in the liquid state they have a strong, unpleasant odor that does not disappear for a long time. Nearly zero throughput.
Dry mixes
They are ready-made, finely dispersed compositions with plastic additives for dilution with water. The application technology is similar to a cement screed. The throughput is weak, however, the effect increases if the bath is equipped with vibrating household appliances - for example, a washing machine. In addition, it crumbles over time, therefore, it is impossible to consider a dry mix as a good waterproofing agent.
Penetrating impregnations and primers
Made in the form of liquid mastics or dry primers for self-dilution into a fluid substance. Principle of action - the composition penetrates into the concrete screed of the bathroom, closing small pores and cracks that are not visible to the eye. Drying, the composition expands inside the potholes, thereby sealing the space and keeping moisture out. High-quality compositions are able to cope even with a large amount of moisture and condensate.
The listed coating and impregnating compositions are intended for processing only concrete surfaces. For wood, it is important to keep the distance - sealed wood can rot inside the mastic or screed. The waterproofing of a wooden floor is carried out using a hydro-barrier - a rubber plasticizer and an activator for hardening.
What to choose for waterproofing your own bathroom
To accurately answer this question, it is important to take into account the individual parameters of the bathroom, the dimensions of the plumbing, and the presence of a warm floor. Experts note that coating materials are the best option for waterproofing in rooms devoid of heavy equipment, cast-iron baths, showers - that is, the bathroom is as light as possible. Otherwise, a reliable concrete screed is required, on which the waterproofing agent is laid.
Do-it-yourself process of waterproofing a bathtub under a tile with your own hands
Since the materials are different, each method is considered before the execution of the work separately. This will allow you to evaluate your own strengths, financial capabilities and the acceptability of a particular raw material for a particular case.
Tools and materials
Brush or brush for sweeping away concrete dust and crumbs. You can also use a vacuum cleaner, but the filters get clogged quickly and the dirt damages the engine. It is not recommended to wash out the concrete slab - due to the characteristics of the room, drying takes a long time and it is not a fact that the concrete will be ready to accept waterproofing.
- A wide spatula for applying polymeric substances and a brush for coating with bituminous compounds.
- Rubber rings for pipes. They are made by themselves.
- Primer.
- Blowtorch for bitumen rolls.
- Personal protective equipment - goggles, gloves, respirator.
The listed materials are required for almost any method of protecting the bathroom from leaks. If you need to replace the screed, plastering tools are also purchased.
Laying rolled materials on a concrete base
The base of the bathroom is being prepared. Working with a concrete slab requires the release of the old screed with a perforator. The platform is inspected for damage - crumbled places, bumps, height difference. If there are all the shortcomings and in large quantities, then you will have to eliminate them radically by laying a new screed.
If the height of the room does not allow, they manage with cement mortar, sealing up especially defective areas. The dried base is primed for better adhesion with roll materials. The film or bitumen rolls are spread out for cutting in such a way that the edges go onto the walls by 15–20 cm. Then, gradually removing the protection from the adhesive layer, the sheets are laid. If the total area is not enough, they are overlapped by 5–7 cm.
The laid waterproofing is carefully smoothed with a roller for better adhesion to the surface. It remains to prepare a screed for laying tiles.
Roll waterproofing flooring on a wooden floor
The algorithm is the same: old floors are removed to draft boards. Check the condition of the wood. If damage in the form of mold or fungus is detected, the structural elements are removed and replaced with new ones. Boards should be carefully knocked down.
Next, steam and waterproofing is laid - a film based on rubber and polymers with a stop on the walls. It is recommended to strengthen the damper tape to the edge. On top of the waterproofing, logs are removed and the boxes are insulated, if required. Expanded clay is used - light and durable, it will not only prevent heat loss, but also reliably withstand the weight of ceramics and sanitary ware. The laid bulk is equipped with a reinforcing mesh and a screed of dry mixes. When the ripening period approaches, they work with ceramic tiles.
Coating waterproofing concrete slab
For baths in apartment buildings, it is the best fit. The preparation of the base is similar to the methods described - removing or bringing the screed sections to a normal state. Next, mark the walls - the height for coating is not less than 20 cm.
Then, molten bitumen or rubber-added polymers are applied to the surfaces, paying particular attention to the transition from floor to wall. You should act quickly, bearing in mind that the composition quickly hardens. After completing the work, they wait for the allotted time for laying the cement screed under the tile.
Coating waterproofing for wooden floor
Preparation - knocking down boards, laying vapor barrier - is the same with any method. When the steam membrane is laid, it is covered with a layer of rubber or polymer mastic with the addition of rubber.
The use of bitumen is undesirable, since its ability to tightly seal any gaps is well known. For wood, this is detrimental - it must be able to "breathe". The rest of the materials have a layered structure that lies on the surface with a certain gap, forming joints in the upper layers. Therefore, the wood will be provided with the possibility of ventilation. Next, arrange a screed for laying tiles.
Drain pipe sealing
Each bathroom is equipped with drains and sewerage. Often, they are built into the floor. This is not very convenient - there is always a risk of leakage due to metal leaking from old age. If the owners do not carry out work to bring the drain to the surface, then the pipes also need to be waterproofed.
Proceed as follows:
- Cut out a rubber rectangle with a side equal to the diameter of the pipe. The length is individual, but at the same time it must cover the visible part of the pipe located in the plane of the waterproofed space.
- A piece of rubber is wrapped around the sewer, fusing the seam. The "sleeve" should sit tight.
- Waterproofing is carried out in the usual way, capturing the rubber ring on the pipe.
- Thus, the resulting condensate will not seep between the ring and the metal - there is no risk of leakage and corrosion.
Work on the layout of sewer and water pipes is done in the bathroom long before the sealing of the base and laying the tiles. An alternative to metal pipes, which have more disadvantages than advantages, is thick-walled plastic.
So, from the written it becomes clear that independent work is not difficult. Having received advice when choosing waterproofing, professionals in retail outlets will give advice on its installation. The result is a long-term absence of problems with leaks and condensate.
